24 Hours in BANFF: The Jewel of Alberta
If you didn’t know by now, I’m a singer by trade, and I perform with a company that produces shows that cover alllll the big hits of yesteryear from Frankie Valli to the Beach Boys.
We’re a week away from finishing our Canadian tour with the Christmas version of our show, landing in Calgary, and find ourselves with an entire evening free. What to do, what to do? The promoter suggests we check out Banff, this beautiful ski/resort town just 90 minutes away by car. Quicker than you can say “snow bunny” I’ve booked a hotel and a vehicle to get there. As soon as we land in Calgary, I drop off luggage and head to the Dollar counter to collect my wheels and get going. Between hotel and transportation, I’m about 8,000 points and $0 invested in this trip. This is shaping up nicely.
En route
After 90 minutes of white-out driving, I arrived in Banff. I’m really happy the CSR at Dollar suggested the all-wheel-drive vehicle. The way it handled in the snow really made it worthwhile. Alabama over here doesn’t have much experience driving through that kinda weather. Though I was tentative driving through the sideways sprays of snowfall, the Rav4 did a great job of keeping me steady and solidly between the lines. If you’re going to road trip in the snow in Canada, I’d recommend an all-wheel-drive vehicle and nerves of steel. Once’s pretty easy to procure. The other takes either a little skill and/or a lot of practice.
Accommodations
I booked the trip at the very last minute and got some great deals thanks to the points I’d accrued on my Chase Sapphire Preferred card. It’s one of the best cards out there for travel, points, and customer service. Within seconds on their points redemption site, I’d reserved my rental car and my hotel. I spent the night at Irwin’s Mountain Inn, a suh-WEET little spot right in the heart of town that provided superior customer service and a stellar stay that didn’t break the bank. They also had a great gym, free parking, and plenty of snow toy storage.
Since I made the plan to visit Banff HOURS before hitting the road for an overnight adventure, I hadn’t planned much. The lovely German concierge with an Australian lilt at Irwin’s was an enormous help in planning the night’s festivities. She gave me suggestions on places to eat, hot spots for both locals and tourists, and directions on how to get everywhere. I already knew where the night was starting, but she helped flesh out the details of where I’d end up.
Start with snow and steam
A trip to the Banff Upper Hot Springs was first on my list. It was a little early for dinner and I wasn’t quite hungry yet (?!?) so I drove to the secluded spring up the hill, just past the famous Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel–more on that later. I’d been nursing a bit of a shoulder injury so a hot soak in the springs seemed an ideal start to my 24-hour getaway.
What. A. Deal. For less than $10 Canadian, I’d purchased admission AND a stunner of a swimmer. After a thorough hose-down (soap-and-water shower required before entry into the public pools, don’tcha know?) and donning this blast from the past, I was ready for some thorough relaxation.
Hotspot: The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel
I still wasn’t 100% ready for dinner yet, so I decided to make a stop on my way down the hill, back into town, to see the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel to see one of the most famous attractions in town.
After admiring the gingerbread reproduction of the estate, I found a quiet table in the Rundle Bar and sipped their VSOP Boulevardier while doing a little writing, watching the snow fall silently outside.
DINNER
When in Banff for only one evening, if one is a connoisseur of red meat at all, Alberta beef should probably be on the menu. My German/Aussie concierge suggested I visit Chuck’s Steakhouse for a great atmosphere, outstanding service, and a beautiful cut of beef. She was right on all counts. Their extensive menus for food and beverage made for the perfect dining experience. Add to that a charismatic and knowledgeable server, you really can’t go wrong. Drew answered all my questions about the menu and led me through “The Conference” from their aperitif menu, a 16-ounce Benchmark Farms organic Angus ribeye with a side of corn crème brûlée for my main course accompanied by a BOLD glass of California Cab, then rounding it out with a caramel-slathered slice of the Mud Pie Bomb and a double espresso for dessert.
With a full belly and a GREAT soundtrack in the background, I was in the mood to sing a little. A couple of winter sportsperson types were talking about karaoke as I left the hotel, so I had it in my mind I was going out for a night of mischief in song. As he dropped the check, Drew recommended I try a place called Wild Bill’s. After his record with recommendations, I added it to the list of musts while in town. I signed the ticket and made my way to the door.
WILD BILL’S LEGENDARY SALOON
OK, I was not prepared for all the awesome that awaited me at Wild Bill’s. Not only was the place PACKED with people, they were mostly young, energetic, international types who took seasonal jobs to see Canada and get their ski on in some of the world’s best powder. Though the place was chockablock with humanity, the list for karaoke was pretty short. Tuesday night. Whoot. I asked a particularly attractive blonde to get some footage of me singing one of my favorite Big ‘n Rich tunes. That’s Lucy from Australia singing along at the edge of the stage. Australian country music enthusiast out and about, seeing the world, living her life to the fullest. Good ON ya, Lucy! Glad you were there.
Once I’d finished my song, I walked off the stage and handed this gentleman a tooney (Canadian two-dollar coin), signed the waiver and got in line to ride the bull BECAUSE OF COURSE I DID.
After a big night at Wild Bill’s, I stopped in at the bar in the backpacker hostel next door to my hotel, just to settle a little before turning in. Met even more Australians working the winter in Banff and we had a wee bit o’ banter before bedtime. I was up early to head to Lake Louise the next morning!
Lake Louise
45 minutes to the northeast by car got me to one of the most beautiful spots I’d ever seen outside a postcard. Lake Louise. Wow. Just…stunning. The snow was falling heavily, covering all with a blanket of hushed austerity. As I walked toward the lake from the parking lot, the powder crunched and groaned as it squeezed itself into the treads of my boots, making for slippery steps to the “water’s” edge. Words don’t do it justice. Here are some photos.
The inside of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise provided stunning views and delicious treats to warm oneself. The chocolate chili pie was a brilliant blend of spicy and sweet, washed down with a hot spiced cider.
The takeaway
Banff is a beautiful little town tucked away in a glorious mountain setting. It has the charm of a European alpine village with a North American vibe, hosting an international population. It’s this microcosm of something for everyone–shopping, sport, scenery, cuisine–with a very laid-back and approachable sensibility. Customer service was fantastic at every turn. Friendly. Genuine.
I think opinions differ on this notion, but here’s how I feel about it: if you have the opportunity to go see something as stunning and world-renowned as Banff and you only have 24 hours to do it? DO IT. Your most valuable allies in this undertaking are flexibility and the word “YES.” It is UNREAL how much awesome will fit into 24 hours if you put yourself out there and soak up as much of the experience as possible.
Sleep? Psh. You can sleep when you’re dead. On the plane. On the sofa on a Sunday afternoon. When you’re this close to a destination, the heart of an adventurer is basically duty-bound to make it happen. And with just a little bit of preparation, you can save a stack of cash. Hotel and car were reserved with points, so no money outta pocket. Which was great, as eating and funning in Banff is NOT cheap. But the experience was worth every nickel. And the memory of this trip will live FOREVER.
Take the leap. Live a little. Even if it’s only for a day.
Love y’all.
GREAT report, James. We were at Lake Louise/Banff a year ago after getting off the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver (highly recommended; go Gold Leaf if you can). Although numerous small forest fires sometimes darkened the skies (especially Kamloops), it wasn’t so bad when we got to Lake Louise. Concur it is beautiful, and if you’re out and about in the summer you need to be mindful of Bears. Terrific adventure and exceptionally nice people.
Awesome feedback, John! I look forward to coming back when the weather is warmer, though the winter was absolutely breathtaking! As always, thanks for reading, good sir!